Popularly known as the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT), this tutorial will show
you how to replace the Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter as Honda calls it. If you go
to your dealer and ask for the Cam Chain Tensioner then you will get the wrong part!
The tools below should be everything you need from start to finish to change the CCT (including gas tank).
From Left to Right, Top to Bottom: 1/4"-->3/8" adapter, 6" extension (1/4"), 1/4" elbow, 5mm socket (1/4" drive),
piece of 5mm allen key from stock toolkit, 3/8" wrench, Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter, 10mm open end wrench, 5mm
allen wrench, 8mm socket (1/4" drive), 12mm socket (3/8" drive), 3" extension (3/8"), CCT gasket,
phillips head screwdriver. I just prefer to use the 3/8" wrench; however, you can use the 1/4" for removing
the CCTL if you want.
Your new cam chain tensioner lifter (CCTL, part #14520-MBW-J22) should look like this. Notice the blue dot,
that is apparently the newest one from Honda and supposedly wont go bad as quickly. Also, DO NOT
take out or mess with that retaining piece thats in the end until you have it mounted in the bike.
I messed with it and had to go to Sears to buy a screwdriver to reset the shaft position, all my
screwdrivers where too big to fit in the hole. Also, buy a new gasket too (part #14523-MAL-A00),
they're only like $3. If you don't, it will probably leak all over the place.
Remove the seat and the fuel tank. You do NOT need to remove the side
fairing as seen in this picture.
Locate the CCTL. It is directly below the throttle position sensor.
A view from the other side:
Use the hex key and the screwdriver to easily remove the throttle position sensor. Make sure to push in on
the tab that is facing toward the frame or you might break the connector (as seen in the photo).
Next, assemble your wrench (seen in the photo as the highlited parts).
I ended up cutting off a tiny portion of the allen wrench that came with the bike
since I did not have a true 5mm hex bit. By putting the piece of allen wrench into your 5mm socket and adding a
little bit of tape to hold the piece in, you make a tool that will get the job done.
Take out the two hex bolts holding it in using your wrench combo. I personally went above the frame,
but you can do it below it too (by the rear shock). Do not take out the center, end bolt yet.
Its very tricky getting these bolts out due to the small space, but be patient and take your time.
Here is another view:
A view with the CCT uninstalled:
Once it is out, then take out the end bolt and save it for the new CCTL. You'll notice in this picture
the new one is fully extended. Thats because I messed with the little retaining piece. Whoops. The only
differences I can see between these two is the blue one has a segment in the metal ring, that the flat
part of the shaft is 90 degrees different, and finally that the old one has a little shaft play in it; meaning
that I could rotate it every so slightly. Update: I got another new one and the ring was
intact. The only differences would then be the rotated shaft, and the shaft play.
New CCT ready for installation (with key still in). Put a small bit of oil on the new gasket on both sides.
Notice the blue dot faces toward the frame; it is not reversible:
Once you've bolted it back on and removed the key (YES! You can finally do it now!), then install the cap
bolt on the new CCT.
The rest of the installation is the opposite of
removal.
Thats it! Certainly not worth the $150-200 the dealer wanted!
This page has helped fix
bad CCTs since May 4th 2004.
